HOW TO MAKE A PREDATOR MASK (ON A SMALL BUDGET)
(page one)

Hello and welcome to this series of photos and explanations on how to make a Predator Mask (on a budget). The first two stages of this build must be completed before getting to this stage.

STAGE ONE: Sculpt your Predator head, using clay, I use School clay because it’s easy to obtain and is a good deal cheaper than other types available. It makes just as good versions of your subject as anything else, it’s your abilities as a sculpture that is important not the product you use.

STAGE TWO: after completing your sculpture of the head, remove the mandibles with clean precise cuts so as to leave no obsticals to hinder the copy from pulling easily from the mould you are about to make. The mandibles will be moulded separately and then added later to the copy of your Predator head.

The mould should me made from casting plaster re-enforced with fabric just like a plaster you would get from the hospital if you break a leg or an arm.
Remember this is a budget mould and complicated moulding methods will not be needed.
Mix the plaster in a large flexible plastic bowl, use as much as is comfortable to handle and get it to the consistency of smooth paste, it should be smooth and more fluid than thick, you don’t want a heavy slump at all in fact it should not be able to hold it’s own weight, as you work it on to the surface of your sculpt it will start to solidify so remember to be prepared to work quickly and have everything to hand you need.
Place your clay sculpt no polythene and have a bucket of water handy to wash the excess plaster off your hands, also a water spray gun (the type used in hair salon) to hand.

To start spray the clay with a fine mist of water, remember to mould your head while the clay is still wet, if you let it dry out it will shrink and crack and will be impossible to remove from your plaster mould after it has cured.
Work the creamy plaster all over your sculpt as quickly as possible with your hands, remember to be brave at this stage because the important part of all your work is the mould now, not the clay sculpt because if your not motivated to work quickly and with purpose it will all end with disappointment. Make sure you get the full jacket on to your clay head, don’t worry if its not to thick in some places and if the clay starts to mix with the wet plaster slightly, your mission is to get the head covered with all the various nooks and crannies filled with soft plaster as soon as possible, once the plaster starts to set its time to put your hands in the bucket of water and wash all the plaster of them for the next mix of plaster. Repeat the plaster proses until you have a jacket of plaster up to 20mm thick, as each layer is added spray the last layer with water so the plaster will nit to the setting previous layer. Work as fast as you can, it’s a messy proses os be prepared to be covered with plaster lol. To strengthen the plaster mould add a layer of Hessian or whatever fabric you have to the plaster, soaking it in the wet plaster and placing it on to the first layers with your hands as before, this stage you can take your time because the first 20mm are the most important . After you’re happy with your efforts let the plaster cure for about a week in a dry worm room. Its then when you can remove all the clay from the plaster mould, it should come away quite easily, add a little water in to the mould as you pull the clay away and it will help as a release agent as you work.

Don’t worry about the mould being stained with the clay; just get all the clay out and your ready to start after you allow the mould to dry completely for another week or so.

Well done now the hard part is over its time to get ready for the Latex leaves.